Understanding Gel Nails: Soft vs. Hard Gels, Curing Tips & Common Mistakes

Happy Daylight Savings and Halloween Month, FIRSTNAME!

My body clock is wreeeecked but I am very excited, I love both of these things haha.

I also love chemistry so this week, we’re continuing our exploration of Chemistry Basics with Part 4 of our series, taking a deeper look at gels.

If you missed Parts 1-3, they’re on our website under ‘News’

If you’ve ever wondered what’s really going on when you use gel polish or hard gels, you’re not alone. Gels are marketed as being totally different from acrylics, but the truth is, they’re part of the same family! They’re all made from similar ingredients; they just act a little differently.

Soft Gels vs Hard Gels

When it comes to gels, there are two main types: soft gels and hard gels.

Soft Gels are the ones we know as gel polish — like Colour Gloss, Bonding Gel, and Correction Gel. These are soak-off gels, which means they’re easy to remove by soaking in acetone. They cure under light quickly, and they’re great for clients who want a more flexible, natural feel.

Hard Gels are generally non-soak-off gels, such as Rock Hard LED Gel. These are used for building extensions and can handle a lot more wear and tear. The downside? You can’t just soak them off; you have to file them down. But hard gels are processed longer before being packaged, which makes them more durable.

Why Are Gels So Sticky?

You’ve probably noticed that gels tend to be thick and sometimes stringy when you’re working with them. That’s because gels aren’t made from single liquid molecules like monomers (which are super runny) or solid polymers (which are fully hardened). Gels sit right in the middle, and that’s why they have that sticky, thick texture.

This consistency can make gels a little tricky to work with, but it has its perks! One big advantage is that gels don’t evaporate like monomers, which means no strong odours. That’s great for both you and your clients!

The Magic of Light-Curing

Now, let’s talk about how gel cures. The magic happens when light triggers the gel to harden, or “polymerise.” That’s why gels need UV or LED lamps to set. But here’s the catch: the light needs to penetrate all the way through the gel for it to harden evenly.

If the gel is applied too thick, the light can’t reach the bottom layers, leaving parts of the gel uncured. This is why applying thin layers of gel is crucial. You’ll get a more even cure, and it’ll prevent the gel from shrinking as it sets.

Another common issue is lamp strength. Over time, UV lamps lose their effectiveness, even before the bulb burns out. So if your gels are taking longer to cure than usual, it might be time to replace your bulbs. LED lamps, on the other hand, don’t have this problem — which is why many techs prefer them.

Watch Out for Gel Burns!

We’ve all heard about the dreaded heat spike when curing gel. This happens when the gel cures too fast, releasing heat (an exothermic reaction). If the gel is applied too thick or the lamp is too strong, it can cause a burning sensation for your clients — and nobody wants that!

The key to avoiding this? Thin layers and making sure your lamp is the right strength for the product you’re using. It’s always a good idea to let clients know they might feel a bit of heat, but if they experience any pain, they should take their hand out of the lamp immediately.

Handle with Care

Gels can be a bit sticky, and that stickiness can lead to problems like allergic reactions if the gel touches the skin. Always be careful to keep gels off your clients’ skin and your own. Clean your tools regularly to avoid transfer, and if there’s any accidental contact, wash it off right away.

The Bottom Line

Gel has a lot of benefits, but it’s important to understand its quirks to use it effectively. Whether you’re working with soft gels or hard gels, always remember: thin layers, proper curing, and careful application are key to getting the best results and keeping your clients happy!

This is what else we loved last week – 

  1. Involving a toddler in a YouTube video… did YOU know that trucks smell like butter chicken soup? 
  2. One of my fave podcast episodes EVER, with Keeta from Beauty Bestie
  3. Humble pie and sharing it with the internet haha
  4. Wild Wendy 🤩
  5. Finding out how inspirational Nail Techs started out!

PS Join Summit 2025 for only $16/week – everyone is welcome! 

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